Future Nostalgia
Pierre Cardin Style
When Pierre Cardin died last December at age 98, the capital-F Fashion System lost its leading architect. Although his disruption of the stuffy couture codes was revolutionary, he was also the Dr. Frankenstein who brought the current fashion monster to life. Branding on steroids, peddling lifestyles instead of garments, prêt-à-porter supersaturation—we have Monsieur Cardin to thank for all that.
And then there were the designs—often sheer genius. With Cosmocorps and other key collections, his strain of futurism more than held its own amid social turmoil and the explosion of global visual culture in the late ‘60s. But does his Space Age vision resonate in 2021? Smashion asked a few NYC friends to throw on some deliciously rare Cardin necklaces, say cheese and share their visions of the future with us.
All necklaces: vintage Pierre Cardin, courtesy of Pauline Ginnane Gasbarro
Instagram: @pollysprops
Model: Feng-Feng Yeh (scroll down for interview)
Bill Oliver
Director
Williamsburg
When you hear the word “future” what immediately comes to mind?
Progress! I hope.
I've known you since I was a teenager but when I saw your movie Jonathan, I was surprised by its futuristic, sci-fi sensibility. What drew you to telling this story?
I was looking for a concept that could be executed on a small budget, and the idea of two people sharing the same body struck me as fascinating, and economical! And, yes, some of my favorite films happen to be futuristic: Alien, Bladerunner, 2001: A Space Odyssey.
For obvious reasons, there’s hand-wringing about New York’s future these days. What’s your take on where we're headed as a city?
We have been through a lot this year, but I know New York will bounce back and reinvent itself in interesting ways. I’m especially concerned about what will happen to nightlife, as I have many friends in that industry, and they have been hit hard.
The necklace you’re wearing epitomizes ‘60s Space Age optimism in design. In the midst of social upheaval, designers had utopian vision. These days, even pre-pandemic, the culture’s on a heavy dystopian trip. Have we lost hope?
I hope not. (Laughs.) Personally, I am weary of dystopic visions, even though some of them are quite beautiful.
Ann Messner
Artist, Activist, Educator
Sunset Park
When you hear the word “future” what immediately comes to mind?
I’ve spent a year in deep sadness about the future. I don’t know if we as a species are up for it. The forces against a collective future are so powerful. Just look at the second impeachment vote. And some people’s incomes have gone up because of the Covid crisis. The investor class. It’s crazy.
The necklace you’re wearing epitomizes ‘60s Space Age optimism in design. In the midst of social upheaval, designers had utopian vision.
Yeah, but it was the era of the Cold War and the Space Race. Why does everything have to be a race?
Fashion does have a way of obscuring power and its abuse, doesn’t it? We were just talking about MISSION ACCOMPLISHED: BELANCIEGE, which of course makes me think of Balenciaga, the ultimate in dystopian cynicism masquerading as chic.
I don’t know. I guess the message is: Nothing good is going to happen but don’t worry, you’ll have your clothes.
Right (laughs). Any book, movie or music recommendations as we face an uncertain future?
Arthur Jaffa’s Love is the message, the message is death.
Ann’s video and sculpture can be seen at annmessner.net. Her stealing and subway stories performances from the late ‘70s tickle Smashion’s funny bone.
Fred
Greenpoint
What's your take on futurism?
Futurism has many faces. Futurists like Peter Thiel, Jeff Bezos and Elon Musk scare me.
The necklace you’re wearing epitomizes ‘60s Space Age optimism in design. But these days, even pre-pandemic, the culture’s on a heavy dystopian trip.
Dystopia in fiction and film is scary and exciting. In reality, dystopia is frightening and boring and terribly sad.
Do you tend to be hopeful about the future? Pessimistic? Neither?
Both.
Any recommendations for future-focused books, movies and music?
Xenogenesis Suite by Nicole Mitchell's Black Earth Ensemble
See Data Feed for more recommendations from Fred and the Smashion crew.
Leti Ruiz
Owner, Downtown Yarns
East Village
With Leti, it’s not about the necklace. The midriff cardigan steals the show, and she made it herself. Smashion covets the look, and we’re of the strong opinion that the future of fashion is about making, not always, always, always buying, buying, buying things.
Leti came to New York a few years ago not knowing how to knit. But she’s a quick learner. Fast forward to 2021, and she runs the show at Downtown Yarns. Touch wood, the beloved knitting supply store has thrived during the pandemic.
Any favorites in terms of future-focused design and music?
Hussein Chalayan, anything by Björk. She has always been so ahead of her time.
Downtown Yarns has a real community focus.You’ve managed to resume your classes for children, and charitable giving is an important part of your business. Do you have recommendations for organizations people can donate to?
G.L.I.T.S. and For the Gworls are two black trans organizations doing good work. I also recommend HMAN.
Keep up with Downtown Yarns on Instagram: @downtownyarns
(Smashion has made donations to G.L.I.T.S., For the Gworls and HMAN. Thanks for the tip, Leti!)
Feng-Feng Yeh
Owner and Creator,
Ciao Downtown
Manhattan
Ciao Downtown is a multimedia platform celebrating healthy cooking for hedonists. As for the must-watch videos, think Nigella Bites meets RuPaul's Drag Race.
When you hear the word “future” what immediately comes to mind?
Definitely Barbarella, Hajime Sorayama, Sophie, Aerofarms, anime, my nephew.
What do you see as the future of food?
I think mindfulness is becoming a huge part of the cultural dialogue. Consumers are starting to be more aware of how, where and why their food choices affect the world and human health. This explains the rise of small businesses that produce ethically responsible foods and even how larger corporations are offering more plant-based, "healthy" options. Technology is enabling us to grow food more efficiently with the environment in mind. I’m hopeful about companies like AeroFarms that grow greens in warehouses without the need for sunlight, soil, or large stretches of land.
You’ve worked in fashion, too. Both food and clothing have sustainability challenges that affect the future of their industries.
We only have 60 more harvests left. That is the amount of topsoil we have left to grow food and cotton. Again, Big Agriculture puts profits over everything. So I try to be a conscious consumer and support small food producers. And there are some great companies such as Diaspora Co. who support regenerative, sustainable, and ethical farmers. These practices restore our topsoil and ecosystems, producing higher-quality, more flavorful, nutrient-dense food. Sustainability will be the focus going forward with food and fashion, because climate change requires it.
The necklace you’re wearing epitomizes ‘60s Space Age optimism in design. But these days, even pre-pandemic, the culture’s on a heavy dystopian trip. Have we lost hope?
I think that capitalism and corruption have really begun to take a toll on us in this country. And it’s easy to feel hopeless in the middle of a pandemic when we are separated from our loved ones and the things we loved to do. However, I like to be hopeful about our future. There is a lot of work to be done in the present moment so I think the sentiment is about what we can do now to keep on advancing.